Rabbit
Rabbits are intelligent, affectionate and social animals that need daily interaction with humans or other rabbits. Spayed or neutered rabbits tend to be healthier, live longer and are better companions.
Diet
The majority of a rabbit's diet should be composed of grass hay (any variety), which is rich in vitamins A & D as well as calcium, protein and other nutrients. Eating hay promotes health and should be available at all times. Avoid the use of alfalfa after a rabbit has reached approximately 7 months of age as it is very high in calcium and protein and more than a rabbit needs. Feeding quality pellets along with hay and other green leafy vegetables is important to add the nutrients not readily available in hay. A well balanced rabbit diet consists of:
Feeding
Things to remember when feeding your rabbit:
Housing
Normal Behavior
Habitat Maintenance
Grooming & Hygiene
Rabbits are intelligent, affectionate and social animals that need daily interaction with humans or other rabbits. Spayed or neutered rabbits tend to be healthier, live longer and are better companions.
Diet
The majority of a rabbit's diet should be composed of grass hay (any variety), which is rich in vitamins A & D as well as calcium, protein and other nutrients. Eating hay promotes health and should be available at all times. Avoid the use of alfalfa after a rabbit has reached approximately 7 months of age as it is very high in calcium and protein and more than a rabbit needs. Feeding quality pellets along with hay and other green leafy vegetables is important to add the nutrients not readily available in hay. A well balanced rabbit diet consists of:
- High-quality rabbit food, Timothy hay and limited amounts of fruits and vegetables.
- Clean, fresh, filtered, chlorine-free water, changed daily.
- Do not feed chocolate, caffeine or alcohol as these can cause serious medical conditions. Avoid sugar and high fat treats.
Feeding
Things to remember when feeding your rabbit:
- Fresh food, timothy hay and water should always be available.
- Vegetables and fruits not eaten within 24 hours should be discarded.
- Fruits and vegetables should not exceed 10% of their total diet.
- Many house plants are toxic and a rabbit should not eat grass treated with pesticides or any other chemicals.
- It is normal for rabbits to eat cecotropes—soft black feces filled with minerals and nutrients (coprophagy). This practice generally happens early in the morning which is why pet parents rarely notice.
Housing
- Rabbits acclimate well to average household temperatures, not to exceed 80°F. Be cautious of extreme temperature changes. The habitat should never be in direct sunlight or in a drafty area.
- Habitat should be at least four times the size of the rabbit and escape-proof with an area that has a solid surface and plenty of room for exercise and play. It is best to provide the largest habitat possible.
- 1 to 2" of bedding should be placed in the habitat. Proper bedding includes high-quality paper bedding, crumbled paper bedding or hardwood shavings. Cedar based products are not recommended.
- Rabbits may be kept in mixed-sex pairs if spayed or neutered, or same-sex pairs if they are raised together. Otherwise, keep rabbits housed separately. Different types of small animals should not be housed together.
Normal Behavior
- When handling a rabbit, ensure you are fully supporting the body, especially the hind legs. Never pick up a rabbit by its ears or try to hold it on its back.
- Rabbits can be litter box trained.
- Rabbits chew on objects to maintain all their teeth, which grow continuously. Ensure your rabbit has plenty of chew sticks or mineral chews available.
- Rabbits can chew on apples, willow, aspen branches, pine firewood, untreated fresh pine lumber attached to habitat or a basket with hay inside (let the rabbit chew the basket as well as the hay).
- Not all wood can be given to rabbits. Do not give rabbits apricot or peach fruit tree branches.
Habitat Maintenance
- Clean and disinfect the habitat and its contents at least once a week with 3% bleach solution. Rinse and allow to dry completely before placing the rabbit back into the habitat.
- Remove wet spots daily; change bedding at least once a week, or more often as necessary.
- Scoop litter pan daily.
Grooming & Hygiene
- Rabbits stay clean and rarely need baths, but may be bathed using shampoo designed for rabbits or kittens, if necessary. Frequently clean areas of the ear you can see without going into the ear canal using a cotton ball.
- It is good to brush rabbits regularly to remove hair that is shedding, help prevent hairballs and keep long haired rabbits from matting. Short-haired rabbits should be brushed once a week and long-haired rabbits should be brushed twice a week.
- Consult your veterinarian if a rabbit's teeth or nails seem too long. Nails should be clipped often so they don't become curled.
How to Care for Domestic Rabbits
Rabbits may be easy to love, but they’re not quite as easy to care for. These lovable, social animals are wonderful companions for people who take the time to learn about their needs. Though providing care for these adorable creatures isn’t difficult, rabbits have a long lifespan—more than 10 years—and many specific care requirements. Anyone considering adding a rabbit to their family should carefully research books and web sites on rabbit care before making a decision. Here are some quick tips to get you started:
Home Sweet Home, Indoors or Outdoors?
Every rabbit owner should know that the safest place for a rabbit to live is indoors. Rabbits should never be kept outdoors! Domestic rabbits are different from their wild relatives—they do not tolerate extreme temperatures well, especially in the hot summer months. Even in a safe enclosure, rabbits are at risk from predators. Merely the sight or sound of a nearby wild animal can cause rabbits so much stress that they can suffer a heart attack and literally die of fear.
Caged or Free to Roam?
Whether you decide to let your rabbit roam free in your entire home or just a limited area, it is important that you make everything rabbit-safe. One little bunny can easily find a whole lot of trouble in an average home. Because rabbits like to chew, make sure that all electrical cords are out of reach and outlets are covered. Chewing through a plugged-in cord can result in severe injury or even death. Their chewing can also result in poisoning if the wrong objects are left in the open or in unlocked low cabinets. Aside from obvious toxins like insecticides, rodenticides, and cleaning supplies, be aware that common plants such as aloe, azalea, Calla lily, Lily of the Valley, philodendron, and assorted plant bulbs can be poisonous to rabbits.
If kept in a cage, rabbits need a lot of room to easily move around. A rabbit’s cage should be a minimum of five times the size of the rabbit. Your rabbit should be able to completely stretch out in his cage and stand up on his hind legs without bumping his head on the top of the cage. Additionally, cages with wire flooring are hard on rabbits’ feet, which do not have protective pads like those of dogs and cats. If you place your rabbit in a wire cage, be sure to layer the floor with cardboard or other material. Place a cardboard box or “rabbit condo” in the cage so the bunny has a comfortable place to hide, and respect your animal’s need for quiet time (rabbits usually sleep during the day and night, becoming playful at dawn and dusk).
When rabbits are kept in a cage, they need to be let out for several hours each day for exercise. Aside from running and jumping, rabbits also enjoy exploring their surroundings. This is an ideal time to play and interact with your rabbit. Make sure that he has a safe area to play and explore.
Bunny Bathrooms
Just like cats, rabbits can easily learn to use a litter box. Place a litter box in the cage to encourage this behavior. If your rabbit roams freely through multiple rooms of your home, it’s a good idea to have litter boxes in several places. Many rabbits enjoy spending time relaxing in their litter box, so make sure that it is of ample size. For bedding (litter), stay away from cedar or other wood shavings, which may cause liver damage or trigger allergic reactions in rabbits. Also avoid clumping or dusty kitty litters, which can cause serious health problems if eaten. Instead, stick with organic litters made of paper, wood pulp, or citrus. Newspaper can work too, but may not be as absorbent. Be sure to put fresh hay in the litter box daily, as many rabbits like to have a snack while sitting in their litter box.
A Balanced Diet
Rabbits have complex digestive systems, so it’s very important that they receive a proper diet. Many health problems in rabbits are caused by foods that are incompatible with their digestive physiology. A basic rabbit diet should consist of the following foods:
Hay
Rabbits need hay—specifically, Timothy grass hay. Rabbits should have access to a constant supply of this hay, which aids their digestive systems and provides the necessary fiber to help prevent health problems such as hair balls, diarrhea, and obesity. Alfalfa hay, on the other hand, should only be given to adult rabbits in very limited quantities, if at all, because it’s high in protein, calcium, and calories.
Vegetables
In addition to hay, the basic diet of an adult rabbit should consist of leafy, dark green vegetables such as romaine and leaf lettuces, parsley, cilantro, collard greens, arugula, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, and others. Variety is important, so feed your rabbit three different vegetables at a time. When introducing new veggies to a rabbit’s diet, try just one at a time and keep quantities limited.
Fruits and Treats
While hay and vegetables are the basis of a healthy diet, rabbits also enjoy treats. Cartoons and other fictional portrayals of rabbits would lead us to believe that carrots are the basis of a healthy rabbit diet. Many rabbits enjoy carrots, but they are a starchy vegetable and should only be given sparingly as a treat. Other treats your rabbit might enjoy are apples (without stems or seeds), blueberries, papaya, strawberries, pears, peaches, plums, or melon. Extra-sugary fruits like bananas, grapes, and raisins are good too, but should be given on a more limited basis.
Foods to Avoid
With such sensitive digestive systems, there are a number of foods that rabbits should avoid eating. These include iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, rhubarb, bamboo, seeds, grains, and many others. Also, don’t feed your rabbit chocolate, candy, anything moldy, or most human foods. If you are not sure about a certain food, ask your rabbit’s veterinarian.
Pellets
If you choose to make pellets a part of your rabbit’s diet, it is best to use them as a supplement to the dark green, leafy vegetables, not as a substitute. These pellets should only be given in small quantities (1/8 -1/4 cup per five pounds of body weight per day, spread out over two daily feedings). Also, make sure to purchase Timothy-based pellets. Many brands of rabbit feed contain seeds, corn, and other foods that are too high in calories to be the basis for a healthy rabbit’s diet.
Water
Rabbits should always have an ample supply of fresh water available. Be sure to change your rabbit’s water at least once each day. Water can be kept in a sipper bottle or bowl. If you use a sipper bottle, watch new rabbits to make sure they know how to use the bottles, and clean bottles daily so the tubes don’t get clogged. If you use a bowl, make sure that the bowl is heavy enough to avoid tipping and spilling.
Chew on This
Chewing is part of a rabbit’s natural behavior, but it doesn’t have to be destructive. To keep rabbits active and amused, you may want to put untreated wood blocks or cardboard in their cages. Bowls, balls, and rings made of willow wood are big hits with many rabbits and can be purchased online or in specialty stores. You can also use paper-towel rolls, toilet-paper rolls, and other chewable cardboard materials that can be tossed in the trash once they’ve served their purpose. Avoid objects with sharp edges, loose parts, or soft rubber that rabbits could chew into pieces and swallow.
Handle With Care
Rabbits are fragile animals who must be handled carefully. Their bones are so delicate that the muscles in their powerful hind legs can easily overcome the strength of their skeletons. As a result, if not properly restrained, struggling rabbits can break their own spines.
To pick up your rabbit, place one hand underneath the front of the rabbit and the other hand underneath his back side, lifting him carefully with both hands and bringing him against your body. Never let a rabbit’s body hang free, never lift by the stomach, and never pick a rabbit up by his ears.
Don’t forget that rabbits are prey animals and many will not enjoy being picked up. Be sure to go slowly with your rabbit and practice. Let your rabbit get accustomed to being handled.
Rabbits groom each other around the eyes, ears, top of the nose, top of the head, and down the back, so they’ll enjoy it if you pet them on their heads. Like any animal, each rabbit will have an individual preference about where he likes to be touched. Rabbits lack the ability to vomit or cough up hairballs like cats, so try to remove loose fur when you have the opportunity to do so. Simply petting or brushing your rabbit for a few minutes each day should remove most of the excess fur. Some rabbit breeds, such as angoras, have extra grooming needs because of their distinctive coats.
What’s Up, Doc?
Just like cats and dogs, rabbits need to receive proper medical care, including annual check-ups. While there are plenty of veterinarians who are able to treat cats and dogs, the number of veterinarians able to treat rabbits is much smaller. It is extremely important that any veterinarian treating a rabbit has experience with rabbits. Many veterinarians who treat rabbits will be called “exotics” veterinarians, meaning that they treat a number of non-traditional pets. Make sure that you have a regular, rabbit-savvy veterinarian as well as a listing of emergency clinics in your area that treat rabbits.
Fix That Bunny
Spaying or neutering your rabbit is very important. Aside from preventing unwanted litters of kits, spaying or neutering has health and behavior benefits. Neutering males eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and can reduce aggression and territory-marking behaviors. Female rabbits have extremely high rates of reproductive cancers as they get older, but spaying them can eliminate those potential problems.
I Need a Friend
Rabbits are social animals and most will be much happier as a part of a pair or trio than on their own. If you don’t have a rabbit yet, consider adopting a bonded pair instead of a single rabbit. Most animal shelters and rabbit rescue groups have pairs available for adoption. If you already have a rabbit, you should consider adding another one to the family. Local rabbit groups can usually find a good match for your rabbit and help with the introduction and bonding process.
When thinking about adding a rabbit to your family, please remember that rabbits are not toys and they are typically not appropriate pets for children. Rabbits are complex creatures—socially, psychologically, and physiologically. They require a great deal of special care and supervision. If you make the decision to add rabbits to your family, please don’t buy from a pet store; instead, adopt from your local animal shelter or rabbit adoption group.
Rabbits may be easy to love, but they’re not quite as easy to care for. These lovable, social animals are wonderful companions for people who take the time to learn about their needs. Though providing care for these adorable creatures isn’t difficult, rabbits have a long lifespan—more than 10 years—and many specific care requirements. Anyone considering adding a rabbit to their family should carefully research books and web sites on rabbit care before making a decision. Here are some quick tips to get you started:
Home Sweet Home, Indoors or Outdoors?
Every rabbit owner should know that the safest place for a rabbit to live is indoors. Rabbits should never be kept outdoors! Domestic rabbits are different from their wild relatives—they do not tolerate extreme temperatures well, especially in the hot summer months. Even in a safe enclosure, rabbits are at risk from predators. Merely the sight or sound of a nearby wild animal can cause rabbits so much stress that they can suffer a heart attack and literally die of fear.
Caged or Free to Roam?
Whether you decide to let your rabbit roam free in your entire home or just a limited area, it is important that you make everything rabbit-safe. One little bunny can easily find a whole lot of trouble in an average home. Because rabbits like to chew, make sure that all electrical cords are out of reach and outlets are covered. Chewing through a plugged-in cord can result in severe injury or even death. Their chewing can also result in poisoning if the wrong objects are left in the open or in unlocked low cabinets. Aside from obvious toxins like insecticides, rodenticides, and cleaning supplies, be aware that common plants such as aloe, azalea, Calla lily, Lily of the Valley, philodendron, and assorted plant bulbs can be poisonous to rabbits.
If kept in a cage, rabbits need a lot of room to easily move around. A rabbit’s cage should be a minimum of five times the size of the rabbit. Your rabbit should be able to completely stretch out in his cage and stand up on his hind legs without bumping his head on the top of the cage. Additionally, cages with wire flooring are hard on rabbits’ feet, which do not have protective pads like those of dogs and cats. If you place your rabbit in a wire cage, be sure to layer the floor with cardboard or other material. Place a cardboard box or “rabbit condo” in the cage so the bunny has a comfortable place to hide, and respect your animal’s need for quiet time (rabbits usually sleep during the day and night, becoming playful at dawn and dusk).
When rabbits are kept in a cage, they need to be let out for several hours each day for exercise. Aside from running and jumping, rabbits also enjoy exploring their surroundings. This is an ideal time to play and interact with your rabbit. Make sure that he has a safe area to play and explore.
Bunny Bathrooms
Just like cats, rabbits can easily learn to use a litter box. Place a litter box in the cage to encourage this behavior. If your rabbit roams freely through multiple rooms of your home, it’s a good idea to have litter boxes in several places. Many rabbits enjoy spending time relaxing in their litter box, so make sure that it is of ample size. For bedding (litter), stay away from cedar or other wood shavings, which may cause liver damage or trigger allergic reactions in rabbits. Also avoid clumping or dusty kitty litters, which can cause serious health problems if eaten. Instead, stick with organic litters made of paper, wood pulp, or citrus. Newspaper can work too, but may not be as absorbent. Be sure to put fresh hay in the litter box daily, as many rabbits like to have a snack while sitting in their litter box.
A Balanced Diet
Rabbits have complex digestive systems, so it’s very important that they receive a proper diet. Many health problems in rabbits are caused by foods that are incompatible with their digestive physiology. A basic rabbit diet should consist of the following foods:
Hay
Rabbits need hay—specifically, Timothy grass hay. Rabbits should have access to a constant supply of this hay, which aids their digestive systems and provides the necessary fiber to help prevent health problems such as hair balls, diarrhea, and obesity. Alfalfa hay, on the other hand, should only be given to adult rabbits in very limited quantities, if at all, because it’s high in protein, calcium, and calories.
Vegetables
In addition to hay, the basic diet of an adult rabbit should consist of leafy, dark green vegetables such as romaine and leaf lettuces, parsley, cilantro, collard greens, arugula, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, and others. Variety is important, so feed your rabbit three different vegetables at a time. When introducing new veggies to a rabbit’s diet, try just one at a time and keep quantities limited.
Fruits and Treats
While hay and vegetables are the basis of a healthy diet, rabbits also enjoy treats. Cartoons and other fictional portrayals of rabbits would lead us to believe that carrots are the basis of a healthy rabbit diet. Many rabbits enjoy carrots, but they are a starchy vegetable and should only be given sparingly as a treat. Other treats your rabbit might enjoy are apples (without stems or seeds), blueberries, papaya, strawberries, pears, peaches, plums, or melon. Extra-sugary fruits like bananas, grapes, and raisins are good too, but should be given on a more limited basis.
Foods to Avoid
With such sensitive digestive systems, there are a number of foods that rabbits should avoid eating. These include iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cabbage, corn, beans, peas, potatoes, beets, onions, rhubarb, bamboo, seeds, grains, and many others. Also, don’t feed your rabbit chocolate, candy, anything moldy, or most human foods. If you are not sure about a certain food, ask your rabbit’s veterinarian.
Pellets
If you choose to make pellets a part of your rabbit’s diet, it is best to use them as a supplement to the dark green, leafy vegetables, not as a substitute. These pellets should only be given in small quantities (1/8 -1/4 cup per five pounds of body weight per day, spread out over two daily feedings). Also, make sure to purchase Timothy-based pellets. Many brands of rabbit feed contain seeds, corn, and other foods that are too high in calories to be the basis for a healthy rabbit’s diet.
Water
Rabbits should always have an ample supply of fresh water available. Be sure to change your rabbit’s water at least once each day. Water can be kept in a sipper bottle or bowl. If you use a sipper bottle, watch new rabbits to make sure they know how to use the bottles, and clean bottles daily so the tubes don’t get clogged. If you use a bowl, make sure that the bowl is heavy enough to avoid tipping and spilling.
Chew on This
Chewing is part of a rabbit’s natural behavior, but it doesn’t have to be destructive. To keep rabbits active and amused, you may want to put untreated wood blocks or cardboard in their cages. Bowls, balls, and rings made of willow wood are big hits with many rabbits and can be purchased online or in specialty stores. You can also use paper-towel rolls, toilet-paper rolls, and other chewable cardboard materials that can be tossed in the trash once they’ve served their purpose. Avoid objects with sharp edges, loose parts, or soft rubber that rabbits could chew into pieces and swallow.
Handle With Care
Rabbits are fragile animals who must be handled carefully. Their bones are so delicate that the muscles in their powerful hind legs can easily overcome the strength of their skeletons. As a result, if not properly restrained, struggling rabbits can break their own spines.
To pick up your rabbit, place one hand underneath the front of the rabbit and the other hand underneath his back side, lifting him carefully with both hands and bringing him against your body. Never let a rabbit’s body hang free, never lift by the stomach, and never pick a rabbit up by his ears.
Don’t forget that rabbits are prey animals and many will not enjoy being picked up. Be sure to go slowly with your rabbit and practice. Let your rabbit get accustomed to being handled.
Rabbits groom each other around the eyes, ears, top of the nose, top of the head, and down the back, so they’ll enjoy it if you pet them on their heads. Like any animal, each rabbit will have an individual preference about where he likes to be touched. Rabbits lack the ability to vomit or cough up hairballs like cats, so try to remove loose fur when you have the opportunity to do so. Simply petting or brushing your rabbit for a few minutes each day should remove most of the excess fur. Some rabbit breeds, such as angoras, have extra grooming needs because of their distinctive coats.
What’s Up, Doc?
Just like cats and dogs, rabbits need to receive proper medical care, including annual check-ups. While there are plenty of veterinarians who are able to treat cats and dogs, the number of veterinarians able to treat rabbits is much smaller. It is extremely important that any veterinarian treating a rabbit has experience with rabbits. Many veterinarians who treat rabbits will be called “exotics” veterinarians, meaning that they treat a number of non-traditional pets. Make sure that you have a regular, rabbit-savvy veterinarian as well as a listing of emergency clinics in your area that treat rabbits.
Fix That Bunny
Spaying or neutering your rabbit is very important. Aside from preventing unwanted litters of kits, spaying or neutering has health and behavior benefits. Neutering males eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and can reduce aggression and territory-marking behaviors. Female rabbits have extremely high rates of reproductive cancers as they get older, but spaying them can eliminate those potential problems.
I Need a Friend
Rabbits are social animals and most will be much happier as a part of a pair or trio than on their own. If you don’t have a rabbit yet, consider adopting a bonded pair instead of a single rabbit. Most animal shelters and rabbit rescue groups have pairs available for adoption. If you already have a rabbit, you should consider adding another one to the family. Local rabbit groups can usually find a good match for your rabbit and help with the introduction and bonding process.
When thinking about adding a rabbit to your family, please remember that rabbits are not toys and they are typically not appropriate pets for children. Rabbits are complex creatures—socially, psychologically, and physiologically. They require a great deal of special care and supervision. If you make the decision to add rabbits to your family, please don’t buy from a pet store; instead, adopt from your local animal shelter or rabbit adoption group.
Do Rabbits Need Shots?
By Kristin Hitchcock
March 21, 2018
Today, we are here to answer the question, “Do rabbits need shots?”
Every pet owner wants their pets to live long, happy, healthy lives. The same is, of course, true for those who own rabbits.
However, there is one topic that can be mightily confusing for rabbit owners – vaccines.
Do bunnies need vaccinations? Are rabbit shots really necessary? Are they even safe?
These questions pose a real issue for bunny owners. We all want our rabbits to live healthy lives, but the role vaccines play in this can be very confusing.
Luckily, that’s exactly why we’ve put together this handy guide! We’ll explore what different experts say about rabbit shots, look at what your bunny might be vaccinated for in the first place, and explore the details of getting your bunny vaccinated.
Do Bunnies Need Shots?
Truly, it depends on what you mean by the word “need.” Legally speaking, pet rabbits only need vaccines if you live in Europe or parts of Australia. Both of these areas require vaccinations against two different diseases – myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease.
This is largely because these diseases are extremely common among wild rabbits in both of these regions. Both of these diseases are tremendously contagious and can easily pass from wild rabbit to domestic rabbit.
Because of these factors, both of these areas have decided to make it mandatory for all bunnies, both indoor and outdoor, to get these vaccinations.
However, matters are different in most other parts of the world – like the U.S.A. and Canada. Vaccinating rabbits is generally rare in these countries, and sometimes the option might not even be available.
This is due to the rarity of these diseases. There are occasional, small outbreaks of myxomatosis in the U.S.A., but there are no licensed bunny shot vaccines against the disease as of yet.
As another example, rabbits can get rabies, but they are low risk for this condition. There is no vaccine approved for rabies shots, at least in the U.S., so the answer to “Do rabbits need rabies shots?” is no.
What Vaccinations Do Rabbits Need? Once again, it really depends on your location. The U.K. and Australia require vaccinations against two different kinds of diseases – myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease.
That’s about as simple as it gets though. In other areas, the law can be extremely confusing as to what vaccines are recommended for rabbits, what vaccines are available at all, and what vaccines are illegal.
For example, Denmark has changed its law multiple times in the last decade.
As of this publishing date, vaccinating your rabbit against myxomatosis is illegal due to the risk of spreading the disease. However, other vaccinations are recommended in Denmark.
In the U.S.A., there is no vaccination for rabbits that has yet to be approved by the USDA’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service’s (APHIS) Center for Veterinary Biologics.
Because of this, no vaccines are available. Furthermore, it is illegal to import vaccinations from other countries, and therefore illegal to vaccinate your pet bunny.
If you have any specific questions about the laws and regulations in your area, it is always best to ask your vet. They will be familiar and up to date on all laws regarding rabbit vaccinations in your country.
Myxomatosis Now that we’ve explored the particular regional laws, let’s look at some particular diseases rabbits can be vaccinated against in some areas.
Myxomatosis is a virus that is transferred from blood sucking insects, like mosquitoes and fleas, to rabbits. The virus then spreads to the lymph nodes, where it is spread throughout the body.
The first signs of this disease usually involves swelling of the eyelids, followed by the lips, genital organs, and the lining of the eye. As the disease progresses, it causes blindness and is usually fatal within 8 to 15 days.
Prognosis for this disease is generally not very good. 99% of rabbits who are affected by this disease pass away due to either the disease itself or a secondary complication. Most vets routinely recommend putting the animal to sleep upon diagnosis.
Myxomatosis was originally discovered in the Americas, and has since spread around both continents.
However, because the rabbits in both North and South America have been long exposed to the disease, they have built up an immunity. In other words, this virus usually does not affect rabbits as negatively in the western hemisphere.
However, the virus was then spread over to Europe, where it spread to other parts of the world as well. Here, rabbits did not have an immunity to the virus, and it affected them much more negatively.
In fact, the disease almost wiped out Australia’s whole wild rabbit population, except for a few individuals who seemed resistant to the virus.
Viral Hemorrhagic Disease Rabbit Viral Hemorrhagic Disease (VHD), also known as Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease or Rabbit Calicivirus Disease, is an extremely contagious ailment that affects only bunnies of the Oryctolagus cuniculus species.
This mostly includes European rabbits, though some forms of domesticated American rabbits are also affected.
It does not affect North American native rabbits or hares.
This disease is extremely contagious, and can even be spread by clothing, shoes, and car tires. It can also be spread by insects, birds, and other animals.
Humans can also spread the disease if they have come into contact with it, though they will not show signs of sickness.
Symptoms can include things such as: loss of appetite, fever, lethargy, and spasms. However, VHD usually causes the affected rabbit to pass away within 48 hours – usually not enough time to report and diagnose symptoms.
Because of this, it is very likely that many rabbits die each year without ever being diagnosed.
If any sudden rabbit death appears suspicious, it is important to report it to your veterinarian as a possible case of VHD. This can help save the lives of other rabbits.
Rabbit Vaccinations Side Effects
If you do get your rabbit vaccinated, there are some side effects you should be aware of, just like with every vaccine.
Side effects to the VHD vaccine include loss of appetite (usually for only 24 hours); site reactions like swelling, irritation, and hair loss and in extremely rare cases, death due to a severe reaction.
Luckily, reactions are normally very rare.
Side effects to the Myxomatosis vaccine include: swelling at injection site, fever, and loss of appetite. This is a very safe vaccine – with overdoses in at-risk rabbits only causing minor side effects.
It is important to note, however, that even with the Myxomatosis vaccine, the rabbit is not guaranteed to never get the virus. Even after vaccination, it is possible.
However, the disease is usually minor when compared to Myxomatosis in unvaccinated rabbits, and is not as fatal.
How Much Do Rabbit Vaccinations Cost
The total cost of annual vaccinations is usually between $40 and $60. Of course, this can vary widely depending on your specific location.
This can be an important cost to consider when thinking about adopting a bunny.
Do Rabbits Need Shots? – A Summary
As you can see, the answer to this question can vary widely.
In some areas, it is required that all bunnies receive particular vaccinations. In other areas, vaccines have yet to be cleared and legalized.
It really does matter a lot on where specifically you are located.
Furthermore, they type of rabbit you own is also important.
Some fatal diseases that are commonly vaccinated against only affect certain species of rabbits. Therefore, you might not need to get your rabbit vaccinated if they are a different species.
Your vet should have up to date, specific information regarding the laws in your area. And therefore, if you have any questions, it is always best to contact a rabbit friendly vet for the correct information.
This is especially true in areas that commonly change their laws regarding rabbit vaccinations.
References and Further Reading
By Kristin Hitchcock
March 21, 2018
Today, we are here to answer the question, “Do rabbits need shots?”
Every pet owner wants their pets to live long, happy, healthy lives. The same is, of course, true for those who own rabbits.
However, there is one topic that can be mightily confusing for rabbit owners – vaccines.
Do bunnies need vaccinations? Are rabbit shots really necessary? Are they even safe?
These questions pose a real issue for bunny owners. We all want our rabbits to live healthy lives, but the role vaccines play in this can be very confusing.
Luckily, that’s exactly why we’ve put together this handy guide! We’ll explore what different experts say about rabbit shots, look at what your bunny might be vaccinated for in the first place, and explore the details of getting your bunny vaccinated.
Do Bunnies Need Shots?
Truly, it depends on what you mean by the word “need.” Legally speaking, pet rabbits only need vaccines if you live in Europe or parts of Australia. Both of these areas require vaccinations against two different diseases – myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease.
This is largely because these diseases are extremely common among wild rabbits in both of these regions. Both of these diseases are tremendously contagious and can easily pass from wild rabbit to domestic rabbit.
Because of these factors, both of these areas have decided to make it mandatory for all bunnies, both indoor and outdoor, to get these vaccinations.
However, matters are different in most other parts of the world – like the U.S.A. and Canada. Vaccinating rabbits is generally rare in these countries, and sometimes the option might not even be available.
This is due to the rarity of these diseases. There are occasional, small outbreaks of myxomatosis in the U.S.A., but there are no licensed bunny shot vaccines against the disease as of yet.
As another example, rabbits can get rabies, but they are low risk for this condition. There is no vaccine approved for rabies shots, at least in the U.S., so the answer to “Do rabbits need rabies shots?” is no.
What Vaccinations Do Rabbits Need? Once again, it really depends on your location. The U.K. and Australia require vaccinations against two different kinds of diseases – myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease.
That’s about as simple as it gets though. In other areas, the law can be extremely confusing as to what vaccines are recommended for rabbits, what vaccines are available at all, and what vaccines are illegal.
For example, Denmark has changed its law multiple times in the last decade.
As of this publishing date, vaccinating your rabbit against myxomatosis is illegal due to the risk of spreading the disease. However, other vaccinations are recommended in Denmark.
In the U.S.A., there is no vaccination for rabbits that has yet to be approved by the USDA’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service’s (APHIS) Center for Veterinary Biologics.
Because of this, no vaccines are available. Furthermore, it is illegal to import vaccinations from other countries, and therefore illegal to vaccinate your pet bunny.
If you have any specific questions about the laws and regulations in your area, it is always best to ask your vet. They will be familiar and up to date on all laws regarding rabbit vaccinations in your country.
Myxomatosis Now that we’ve explored the particular regional laws, let’s look at some particular diseases rabbits can be vaccinated against in some areas.
Myxomatosis is a virus that is transferred from blood sucking insects, like mosquitoes and fleas, to rabbits. The virus then spreads to the lymph nodes, where it is spread throughout the body.
The first signs of this disease usually involves swelling of the eyelids, followed by the lips, genital organs, and the lining of the eye. As the disease progresses, it causes blindness and is usually fatal within 8 to 15 days.
Prognosis for this disease is generally not very good. 99% of rabbits who are affected by this disease pass away due to either the disease itself or a secondary complication. Most vets routinely recommend putting the animal to sleep upon diagnosis.
Myxomatosis was originally discovered in the Americas, and has since spread around both continents.
However, because the rabbits in both North and South America have been long exposed to the disease, they have built up an immunity. In other words, this virus usually does not affect rabbits as negatively in the western hemisphere.
However, the virus was then spread over to Europe, where it spread to other parts of the world as well. Here, rabbits did not have an immunity to the virus, and it affected them much more negatively.
In fact, the disease almost wiped out Australia’s whole wild rabbit population, except for a few individuals who seemed resistant to the virus.
Viral Hemorrhagic Disease Rabbit Viral Hemorrhagic Disease (VHD), also known as Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease or Rabbit Calicivirus Disease, is an extremely contagious ailment that affects only bunnies of the Oryctolagus cuniculus species.
This mostly includes European rabbits, though some forms of domesticated American rabbits are also affected.
It does not affect North American native rabbits or hares.
This disease is extremely contagious, and can even be spread by clothing, shoes, and car tires. It can also be spread by insects, birds, and other animals.
Humans can also spread the disease if they have come into contact with it, though they will not show signs of sickness.
Symptoms can include things such as: loss of appetite, fever, lethargy, and spasms. However, VHD usually causes the affected rabbit to pass away within 48 hours – usually not enough time to report and diagnose symptoms.
Because of this, it is very likely that many rabbits die each year without ever being diagnosed.
If any sudden rabbit death appears suspicious, it is important to report it to your veterinarian as a possible case of VHD. This can help save the lives of other rabbits.
Rabbit Vaccinations Side Effects
If you do get your rabbit vaccinated, there are some side effects you should be aware of, just like with every vaccine.
Side effects to the VHD vaccine include loss of appetite (usually for only 24 hours); site reactions like swelling, irritation, and hair loss and in extremely rare cases, death due to a severe reaction.
Luckily, reactions are normally very rare.
Side effects to the Myxomatosis vaccine include: swelling at injection site, fever, and loss of appetite. This is a very safe vaccine – with overdoses in at-risk rabbits only causing minor side effects.
It is important to note, however, that even with the Myxomatosis vaccine, the rabbit is not guaranteed to never get the virus. Even after vaccination, it is possible.
However, the disease is usually minor when compared to Myxomatosis in unvaccinated rabbits, and is not as fatal.
How Much Do Rabbit Vaccinations Cost
The total cost of annual vaccinations is usually between $40 and $60. Of course, this can vary widely depending on your specific location.
This can be an important cost to consider when thinking about adopting a bunny.
Do Rabbits Need Shots? – A Summary
As you can see, the answer to this question can vary widely.
In some areas, it is required that all bunnies receive particular vaccinations. In other areas, vaccines have yet to be cleared and legalized.
It really does matter a lot on where specifically you are located.
Furthermore, they type of rabbit you own is also important.
Some fatal diseases that are commonly vaccinated against only affect certain species of rabbits. Therefore, you might not need to get your rabbit vaccinated if they are a different species.
Your vet should have up to date, specific information regarding the laws in your area. And therefore, if you have any questions, it is always best to contact a rabbit friendly vet for the correct information.
This is especially true in areas that commonly change their laws regarding rabbit vaccinations.
References and Further Reading
- National Office of Animal Health, Rabbit Vaccinations Briefing Document.
- Martin, A (2016). Myxomatosis in the US. House Rabbit Society.
- Praag, E. (2010). Myxomatosis in Rabbits. MediRabbit.
- Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, Rabbit Vaccinations.
- Marcato, P. S. et al (1991). Clinical and pathological features of viral haemorrhagic disease of rabbits and the European brown hare syndrome. Revue Scientifique et Technique (International Office of Zootics).
- House Rabbit Society, Viral Hemorrhagic Disease.
- Macauthur Veterinary Group, Rabbit Vaccination.
- European Medicines Agency (2011). CVMP assessment report Nobivac Myxo-RHD.
What Type Of Hay Is Best For Rabbits?
- Timothy hay (best for adult rabbits)
- Meadow hay (best for adult rabbits)
- Oat hay (best for adult rabbits)
- Orchard grass hay (best for picky eaters)
- Alfalfa hay (best for baby/junior rabbits)
Can My Rabbit Have Fresh Grass Instead Of Hay?
Yes! Grazing grass – or grass mixed with field herbs – is a perfect substitute for hay when the weather is appropriate. Just remember that fresh grass is 70-80% water, so your rabbit needs a much larger quantity in comparison to hay.
Also, make sure that your grassed or lawn area is not subjected to chemicals or other pet urine – and that it doesn’t contain plants that are poisonous to your rabbit. Common lawn weeds are generally okay.
Yes! Grazing grass – or grass mixed with field herbs – is a perfect substitute for hay when the weather is appropriate. Just remember that fresh grass is 70-80% water, so your rabbit needs a much larger quantity in comparison to hay.
Also, make sure that your grassed or lawn area is not subjected to chemicals or other pet urine – and that it doesn’t contain plants that are poisonous to your rabbit. Common lawn weeds are generally okay.
How To Identify Shock in Rabbits and Help Them Recover
https://bunnylady.com/shock-in-rabbits/
https://www.raising-rabbits.com/dwarf-rabbits.html
https://www.raising-rabbits.com/rabbit-genetics.html
https://www.raising-rabbits.com/dwarf-rabbits.html
https://www.raising-rabbits.com/rabbit-genetics.html
Must Pick up at Elk Grove CA 95757 [email protected]
* If you want to reserve, schedule a pick up or come to take a look of the bunnies, simply leave your phone number and tell us which bunnies do you want!
* If you want to reserve, schedule a pick up or come to take a look of the bunnies, simply leave your phone number and tell us which bunnies do you want!